When I signed up to spend my 30th birthday on a boat in the middle of the Galápagos Islands, I had no idea what was in store. From what I’d heard, up-close animal sightings and otherworldly landscapes were guaranteed, but no amount of research could have prepared me for the experience waiting 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. Though many refer to the Galápagos as a “once-in-a-lifetime” destination, I disagree. Rather, it is a place I am determined to return to, again and again.
While there are a couple of high-end hotels in the Galápagos, like Finch Bay and Pikaia Lodge, the best way to experience this rugged paradise is by boat. Sailing happens throughout the night while you sleep, ensuring that you have ample time to explore new islands, beaches and bays during the day. It is the optimal way to see the most you can in a short amount of time, and this past August, I celebrated a new decade while traveling aboard Ecoventura’s signature Evolve.
Ecoventura is a three-yacht Relais & Châteaux cruise line committed to sustainability and luxury living, even in the middle of one of the Pacific Ocean’s most untouched archipelagos. By using vessels with steel hull designs and lighter structures, Ecoventura has managed to cut their carbon emissions by 30 percent, while reducing nitrogen oxide emissions by 90 percent, providing greater protection for the sensitive ecosystem. The gourmet dining, open bar and 24/7 personal concierge service are all enticing, but it’s the exclusivity of each expedition that really stands out. Each of the three ships (Origin, Theory and Evolution) holds a maximum of 20 guests, encouraging a sense of community and camaraderie amongst both the passengers and crew. Though each day brings something new, the structure remains the same: The first activity of the day kicks off right after breakfast, typically around 9 a.m., followed by lunch, leisure time, an afternoon excursion, a cocktail hour and briefing on the next day’s schedule, and finally, a multi-course dinner.
From the moment you step onboard, it’s clear this is going to be a very intimate experience. The cabins, though comfortable and spacious, are all right next to each other on the lower deck. The dining area is communal, the lounge is cozy and the itinerary borders on militant, but you quickly understand why that’s necessary. When we sat down for our welcome briefing, Champagne glasses in hand, I looked around the room to find a group of fellow passengers that varied in age, ethnicity and energy. There was a sense of nervousness in the air as we made shy introductions, realizing that we were about to spend a full week in the middle of the Pacific Ocean with a bunch of strangers, in close quarters. On one side of the room we had a group of Canadians who run a vegan travel agency, on the other, a finance whiz from New York City.
“When you leave here, you will leave as a family,” our Ecoventura concierge, Jessica Jara, said. “The experiences you will share during this week create a bond that you won’t forget, and we are honored to be a part of it.” As she spoke, the apprehension in the room was palpable. I scanned the room, searching for friendly faces and finding very few smiles. However, in a mere 24 hours, Jessica’s promise was already ringing true.
The next morning, we hopped on a dinghy and embarked on our first official outing—snorkeling with sea lions. On the boat ride to our landing beach, there was a sense of wariness amongst the passengers, and awkward silence lingered. It turns out that nothing breaks the ice like trying to squeeze into a wetsuit in front of 15-plus strangers, all of whom are struggling just as much as you.
Our guides, Ivan Lopez and Fabricio Carbo, led us into the crystal clear water, instructing us to put our masks and fins on. As we swam out, sea lions barked from the jagged rocks that lined the beach, though they seemed to be keeping their distance. After about 10 minutes, we were comfortable in the water, swimming about and admiring the fish and rocky floor below, when a massive body darted underneath me. I screamed into my snorkel, lifting my head out of the water to catch my breath, only to find myself face-to-face with a female sea lion. “She’s playing!” Fabricio shouted. Soon, there were three different sea lions circling our group, swimming underneath our legs, diving in and out of the water and chasing one another. As a Californian who is no stranger to sea lions, I can say with full certainty that I’d never encountered wildlife like this.
Their brazenness makes you feel like a Disney princess with the power to summon adorable animals at your will. We watched them for about an hour, all of us laughing and alerting one another when a sea lion was approaching. It felt like reverting back to childhood; embracing an experience that was raw, innocent and bewildering. During lunch, the awkward silence was no more. We had plenty to discuss and rehash as we shared photos and GoPro footage over shrimp-filled empanadas, fried plantains and Ecuadorian cervezas.
Our afternoon excursion was a hike to see the blue-footed boobies, birds famous in the Galápagos. Their name gives away their most striking feature: a pair of bright blue, webbed feet that look painted on. As we walked through the dry terrain, surrounded by bright red succulents, we stumbled across a couple of baby Boobies, complete with fluffy white feathers and large doe eyes. Even our guide, Fabricio, was tickled by them. It was during this hike that I began to feel as though I had known my fellow passengers and crew for far longer than just 24 hours—we were laughing, cracking jokes and gasping at the stunning scene laid out before us. During dinner that evening, everyone felt looser, and while we were chowing down on a coursed meal of charred octopus, prawn bisque and grilled corvina, someone yelled, “Sharks behind the boat!”
Every one of us shot up from the table, grabbed our wine glasses and ran out onto the deck. Three huge Galapagos sharks were trailing our yacht, illuminated by the stern lights. We watched them swim and circle, feeling a tad apprehensive about our snorkel the following day. Afterward, a majority of us retreated to the top deck to admire the stars, which were putting on quite the show. Fabricio, Ivan and our captain joined us, sharing stories about the constellations and islands we were traveling between. The excitement that both of our guides displayed at each excursion was contagious. You would think they’d be used to seeing the animals and visiting the various islands, but it seemed just as much a treat for them as it was for us. “I was born and raised in the Galápagos, on San Cristóbal. My father was a doctor of medicine and my mother was a doctor of psychology,” Ivan shared. “My dad, he actually helped start the local university, so I’m very proud to be here and have this job. There are probably over 1,000 people who would love to take my job with Ecoventura.”
The rest of our trip included countless surreal highlights. From swimming with Galápagos penguins to watching a Humpback whale and her baby breach just 15 feet from our dinghy, interacting with the wildlife reminds you that our world is far more magical than it is mundane.
Though the Galápagos is a year-round destination, late summer is a great time for those hoping to see extra active waters (just be prepared for the occasional rough seas). My visit coincided with seal pup season, and we were lucky enough to stumble upon a baby that had been born within the hour, placenta still attached to its mother. The circle of life is on full display, and while you might encounter the occasional predator-meets-prey scenario, new beginnings and a harmonious flow through nature are what take center stage.
On the boat, the passengers find their own flow, with the help of Ecoventura’s attentive crew. After a day or so, you get in the rhythm of the itinerary, waking up early and going to bed before 10 p.m. on most nights. During breakfast and dinner, the crafty staff manage to transform your cabin in a matter of minutes. One of my favorite touches was the housemade hot chocolate, which is waiting for you the second you return from snorkeling. You peel off your wetsuit, grab a towel and are immediately handed a cup of rich Ecuadorian drinking chocolate, warming you from the inside out. Downtime is few and far between, but is best spent on the upper deck hot tub, with a glass of Argentine wine in hand. Our group also found that playing cards was a great way to unwind after a long day of exploring, learning more and more about each other along the way.
My aunt Marcee, a Christian Southern belle who accompanied me on the trip, took a particular liking to a surgeon named Rachel, a blunt atheist who was on holiday with her soft-spoken wife, Nicole. Watching their friendship blossom was one of the most delightful parts of my Ecoventura adventure. Two people, who in any other circumstances probably would not cross paths, found a natural affinity for one another, proving that even the most dissimilar of us can find connection. As much as she didn’t want to admit it initially, Rachel adored Marcee, and by the end of our trip, she was asking her to go souvenir shopping. I also had the pleasure of sharing a birthday with another passenger on board, and on our special day, we celebrated with two large cakes and lots of singing. Toward the end of your expedition, a pirate party is held on the deck, complete with the crew dressed in costumes, animal awards and plenty of dancing. It might sound kitschy (because it is), but it’s also the only time you’ll be able to do the Macarena in one of the untamed and untouched places on the planet.
Ecoventura makes traveling to one of the world’s most protected and exclusive destinations easier than ever, but it’s the connections you build along the way that you’ll carry with you. Looking back on that first welcome briefing, I never would have guessed that the people in that room would make such an impact, and during such an important birthday, nonetheless. Bidding adieu to the passengers, crew and islands left an ache in my heart as we boarded the plane back to the mainland, and as someone who travels frequently, that was a first.
While I was certainly lucky to have experienced the heartland of Darwin’s famous theory, I can’t help but think that fate played a role. The synergy and camaraderie with strangers were too special to replicate, but maybe this is the connection that humans are capable of when we meet each other with open minds and eager hearts. Perhaps a trip to the Galápagos is all we need to trigger the next phase of our evolution.
